Pen y Cil from Aberdaron.
Start. Aberdaron.
Route. Aberdaron - Wales Coast Path - Porth Simdde - Porth Meudwy - Porth Cloch - Porth y Pistyll - Hen Borth - Pen y Cil - Bodermid - Tir Glyn - Cwrt - Ffynnon Saint (well) - Aberdaron..
Notes. Aberdaron a former fishing village tucked away in the folds of the Llŷn Peninsula at the mouth of the Daron River, last stop for pilgrims on their way to Ynys Enlli the island of 2000 saints, Bardsey. The pilgrims have long gone but the routes they took remain, it was one of those routes we followed to the headland of Pen y Cil.
The National Trust car park makes as good a starting point as any, from the rear of the car park an obvious path cuts along the coast, this we followed to a track descending to a small slipway, we ascended to access the Wales Coast Path. Fenced at this point it guided us high above Aberdaron Bay before a steep descent deposited us at Porth Simdde, this small cove to the south end of Aberdaron Beach once housed a barite mine. The remains of a wheel house can be seen above the high water line, this housed the water powered grinding stones used to grind the mineral to powder before shipping, at low tide the remains of a jetty can be seen stretching to the low water mark.
After a quick look around we made the leg burner of a climb out of the cove, the coast path then guided us to Porth Meudwy or Hermits Cove, after a steep descent we arrived at a slipway. This was the traditional landing place for boats returning from Bardsey Island, it is still in use today by a small fleet of lobster boats. Another steep climb ensued, don’t let anybody tell you this coastal walking is easy, we continued passing under a rocky outcrop above Porth Cloch, into view tilted a small port at the foot of a steep cliff. The old quay at Porth y Pistyll, built in the early 20th century to ship locally quarried stone. The path then curved above Hen Borth before crossing Pen y Cil headland, from the cairn at the summit the all round views are stunning.
We sat around drinking coffee just soaking them up, out to sea across the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound the holy island itself looked just a stones throw away, the 300ft high compressed cliffs guarding the abyss of Perwyd gave me that falling feeling. Overflowing with stunning views we headed in land, ignoring a gate to our left we wandered through cow pastures to access a stoney lane leading to a bungalow, this lane in turn guided us to a narrow ribbon of tarmac.
From this narrow lane two paths lead back to the coast, we had a choice, stick to the road, it was quiet and would guide us through a landscape of fields and hedgerows, of farm animals and wildlife, or drop back onto the coastal path, as it was hot, neither of us fancied the steep climbs on the coastal path so opted for the road. Road walking was even hotter, by the time we reached Aberdaron the pair of us agreed, the coast would have been better.
Our intended route, above the cliffs bordering Aberdaron Bay.
Aberdaron at the mouth of the Daron River, stunning beaches and plenty of watering holes, for this was the last overnight stop for pilgrims on their way to Bardsey Island.
Porth Simdde once a busy cove home to birite quarry.
The rising tide at Porth Smidde.
From the beach at Porth Simdde the islands of Ynys Gwylan-fawr and Ynys Gwylan-bach.
Aberdaron as seen from Porth Simdde.
Striding out over the surface of a reassuring path, looking back to Porth Simdde and Aberdaron.
The whispering sea at Porth Meudwy.
Once echoed to the sound of picks and shovels, the old quarry at Porth y Pistyll.
Above Porth y Pistyll enjoying wonderful views over Aberdaron Bay.
Headland after headland, bay after bay, the great sweep of the Welsh coast viewed from above Hen Borth.
Ascending Pen y Cil looking back over the beauty of Cardigan Bay.
Bardsey Island, seen over the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound, fittingly Bardsey in Welsh means"island in the flood of tides".
From the summit of Pen y Cil great views down the beautiful Welsh coast, ragged cliffs, rocky headlands, sheltered estuary's and hidden coves, dune backed beaches and miles of golden sand, it's got the lot.
The summit Pen y Cil.
Views over the farmland of the Llŷn Peninsula.
Views unrivaled for miles.
The tiny coastal hamlet of Aberdaron.
Wet sand left by an ebbing tide, the magic of Aberdaron Beach.